Themed Bouqets

Inspiration

I needed a bouquet and I didn't have time or the wherewithal to go buy one, so I looked at what I had, and made one.  It's become tradition now.

Materials, Processes, and Results

The  first was dog biscuit-shaped cookies on bamboo skewers, tied in paper with a ribbon to look like a bouquet.  I had the extra cookies because they hadn't been quite right for another project.  Unfortunately I don't have a picture of the bouquet or the Italian cookies I used, only a picture of some cracker-type cookies I used for the other project.

For the second, I cut a slit in some free candy papers and passed one twisted end of a wrapped cough drop through it.  I wired one to the top of a bamboo skewer.  I used some single serving packets of cold medications from the health clinic to create bunched "leaves" I wired to more skewers.  I trimmed the skewers to various lengths and used rubber bands to keep them loosely grouped.  I layered paper facial tissue inside a green satin "handkerchief" scarf I had, wrapped it up, and tied it with raffia I also had on hand.
 




  

I had packs of origami paper I'd barely touched and looked up various free origami clothing patterns online.  From left to right: a man's black trenchcoat, a yellow short-sleeved, white-collared dress shirt with black slacks taped below, a woman's French blue coat with a pale blue scarf, and a sky blue calico party dress with a royal blue handbag.  I used black-coated copper jewelry wire and jewelry pliers and nippers to create the miniature wire hangers.  I also wired three bamboo skewers together to create the "clothes rod".  I wrapped this in stiff grey tissue paper used to package clothes in gift boxes and tied it with two large iridescent glittery pipe cleaners.  All materials I'd had on hand.

DIY Heart Embroidery Sampler Piecework Pillow

Inspiration: DIY Heart Embroidery Sampler (For Beginners)

I had most of the supplies and I wanted to learn embroidery so I can repair some clothes.  This seemed like a simple enough start, and along the way, I decided it will be the centerpiece of a quilted piecework pillow I will give as a gift.  Then I will paint or draw the same design for a subsequent gift to the same person.  Now I have seven such paired gifts in mind. 

Materials 

• A huge box of embroidery floss in a variety of colors (that belonged to a favorite aunt)
• Small, pointed, sharp thread scissors
• Fabric scissors to cut fabric, optional
• Embroidery needles
• Needle threaders, optional
• Hoops of various sizes, 8" for this project (a gift for which I'm grateful)
• Squares of various solid color cotton fabrics I got for free, cut to 10" x 10" or 12" x 12"
• A long, thin loop turner, optional (not pictured here)
• A container for the project and supplies (not pictured)
• Pencil, pen, chalk, or colored pencil to transfer the pattern (not pictured)
• A pattern (linked below)
• Paper cutter or paper scissors--do not use fabric scissors on paper or they will get dull faster

 

Step 1:  Gather supplies. 

Pattern
A sampler pattern gives you the opportunity to learn several new stitches and attempt to make straight lines with them.   This heart pattern doesn't require any curves and starts off with seven of the simplest stitches.  It also uses seven different thread colors.  I printed mine out and trimmed 1.25" off the top and bottom of the paper with a paper cutter according to the directions in the Inspiration link.  Your pattern size will determine the hoop and fabric size, but you may have some leeway, so you may choose to slightly shrink or enlarge your pattern as you desire.

Embroidery Floss
Choose a pleasing combination of seven different floss colors that will contrast or coordinate with the fabric color you choose.  I think I ended up with ten different colors because some in the box were quite similar.

Hoop
Choose your hoop size so you know how large to cut your fabric square.  I'm not impressed with the tensioning ability of these hoops (I either can't tighten the screw enough by hand, or this fabric is too slippery).  Next time I'll try using a rubber band to help with friction between the hoops, and I'll have to cut the fabric a bit bigger for that.

Needle
The needle needs to be large enough to make threading it easy enough, but I think mine's too large and makes holes in the fabric that allow the knots to pass through, unless I double knot the end of the floss.

Fabric Scissors, Thread Scissors, and Paper Scissors or Paper Cutter
You may need fabric scissors to cut the fabric.  It's easier to have dedicated scissors, but if you're not worried about your edges being rough, it may not matter.  Don't use fabric scissors on paper if you do have a separate pair, or they dull faster.

The thread scissors need to be sharp enough to easily snip the thread and small and pointed enough to snip a stitch if you have to remove some of your work.

You will also need paper scissors or a paper cutter to trim your pattern.

Loop Turner, optional
I used this to re-knot some trimmed work where the knots spontaneously came undone.

Fabric
I've since learned there's cloth that's specifically woven to make such projects easier, called Aida weave.  The fabric I chose is a stiff yet flexible looser weave than most calico, and not well suited to the beginner I think, but it was free and I didn't know any better.

I washed, ironed, and cut several squares of various pastels, and ultimately chose a medium grey and a palette of green threads.  I should have cut them slightly larger than my pattern paper.

Container
I have a small box that fits everything including my current project.  This makes it easy to tidy up without putting everything away.

Writing Utensil
The pattern transfer link (below) discusses several options and how to choose them.  I used a 7H graphite pencil, which in retrospect was a bad choice for a medium grey fabric.  I should have used a light colored pencil or perhaps chalk; I have many options of both.  The other issue with the fabric was that it stretched as I sketched on it.  A softer lead may have distorted the pattern less.

Step 2:  Transfer the pattern.

There are several methods for transferring a pattern.  I taped my paper and fabric to my window on a
sunny day and used a 7H graphite pencil as discussed under Writing Utensil.  I now know I should have chosen differently.  I may also need a brighter light if I'm going to use this medium grey fabric again, or I will somehow have to intensify the pattern printing.

I've added my final version of the pattern to my notebook, shown at right.

Step 3:  Prepare the hoop and fabric. 

I had to search online for more details because the Inspiration guide wasn't sufficient for my hoop and fabric, but I didn't keep that link.

Step 4:  Begin stitching. 

I found the Inspiration link had excellent step-by-step tutorials and followed them.

Step 5:  Continue stitching. 

I accidentally skipped line 7 on the right and would have seven subsequent lines of Running and Back Stitches, I tried French Knots—and later learned that’s one of the hardest stitches.  It was ugly, so I added a modified Back Stitch and tacked down some of the larger knots, and now it looks like some sort of leafy vine.  Not my favorite, but much better without having to remove the work.  French Knots are the worst to remove, at least so far.

I’ll add one more Chain Stitch to finish the right side.

I redid lines 1 & 2 because they were so crooked, and have lost what little of my pattern I could see, so I tried a variation of Back Stitch that allows me to make the stitches more even and in a straighter line.  I try to align my needle with my existing line for the subsequent stitch, and that's been keeping the Back Stitch and Running Stitch lines straighter.  For the Back Stitch itself, I start at A (as shown in the linked Inspiration tutorial, but then insert my needle at B, and poke the tip of the needle through C before I pull the thread through.  This allows me to use A as a midpoint, so my stitch lengths are more even.

I’ve been using up short pieces in some cases, since that’s what my aunt wrapped around the top of some of her cards. That pertains to my star problem. After I finished the Chain Stitch on the left, I noticed two Stars had come undone, as well as some of my top knots, where I’ve tied off at the end of the line.  I don’t know why this is happening, but since I’d already trimmed the thread, it wasn't long enough to rethread the needle and tie it off that way.  Luckily I have a long thin loop turner (pictured above) and figured out a solution. (I can’t find a video and I don’t know how to describe it—maybe I can do pictures later.) So I’ve been leaving my ends longer and using the loop turner to weave the tails back through my work.

Step 6:  Finish stitching. 

I have more lines of stitches than in the original design in order to keep the overall heart shape after the penciled drawing faded to uselessness.

I added some stitches not included in the original because I messed up the order of some of the specialty stitches and didn't want too many of the simpler ones grouped on the outer edge. 

This also allowed me to repeat, and thus to practice, the French Knots and the Threaded Running Stitch.

 

 

Step 7:  Design the piecework pattern. 

My mom has leftover scraps, pre-cut squares and triangles, that she won't use, so I can select from those for free. 

I used a giant sheet of graph paper, from a pad I also picked up for free, and drew grid lines every 2" -- the approximate width of a sewn square.  Using her rotary cutter, mat, and ruler, I used another sheet to cut 2" squares and cut half of those into "half-squares", so called to differentiate these triangles by those called "quarter-squares."  I laid those out until I had a design approximating a heart.

This is a pillow that will be 16"x16", or 8x8 squares.

I used another sheet of graph paper, and transferred one-half of the design to that -- I can mirror the layout this way.  I can make four 4x4 blocks, two upper and two lower, the right ones mirroring the left.  This way I can use the other half of the paper, as well as the other side, for later layouts.

Step 8:  Determine the pieces needed. 

I transferred the design to a grid-dotted notebook (not to scale) for easier reference, and summed how many of each shape I will need in what hues and tones.

I sorted through her thousands of scraps and hundreds of fabrics first by general color, then separated each hue (here, green and grey) roughly by shade and tone.

I tried to choose unique fabrics for each piece; in some cases used a striped piece cut vertically and one on the diagonal; in other cases used the reverse of a fabric if it looked enough like a true print.

There are 94 total pieces in this pattern, and at least 90 unique fabrics for this face.  This is not including the backing that I will quilt the face to, or the background for the embroidery, which I will applique in the center of the piecework, or the back of the pillow itself, which will be one large piece.

 

 Step 9:  Incorporate into piecework. 

Details

Step 10:  Quilt pillow front. 

Details

Step 11:  Finish pillow. 

Details

 

WORK IN PROGRESS

Everyday Watercolor

Everyday Watercolor: Learn to Paint Watercolor in 30 Days

I liked the style of the artist's work and the idea that I could essentially do small watercolor doodles when I don't have a lot of time or energy.  These skill practice doodles will make a set of cards I will give as a gift.  True multi-tasking!

Materials

• The materials in my new 'portable' watercolor kit.

 

Step 1:  Read & follow along with each section. 

So far, I've been reading a section per day, and working on that section the next day.  This seems easier than trying to do them simultaneously, although I've already made mistakes based on misreading.

 

Step 2:  Assess current materials.

I know I'll probably need some new or different brushes, but the selection is overwhelming.  This book suggests to start with three round brushes, sizes 2, 6, and 16, Kolinsky sable if possible, Princeton Synthetic Sable if not.  Referring to Jane Blundell's blog (as I have in the past), I've decided on travel brushes in sizes 2, 6, and 12 (as 16 is not available), or 10 as it's about 1/3 the cost of the 12.  I can get a cheaper bristle for a mop or wash brush.  I can use these at home as well, or continue with my current selection.

Currently I have a few pads and blocks of watercolor papers.  I usually cut a larger piece down to card size and paint on it without taping it down.  If it's easier to paint on blocks and let them dry on the block, I'd need more blocks.  I need more places to tape paper down if I do tape them.

Use two water cups; one for dirty water and one for clean.

DIY Rocker Balance Board

Inspiration

I have access to a Bosu ball in the gym, but I needed a balance board to use on vacation, and decided to bring it home so I can do my PT exercises at home if I can't make it to the gym.  Bosu balls are probably expensive and are too awkward to be any sort of portable.  The balance board like the one my PT showed me is $80 online.  The starred items were "found" items from my house or one of my parents', so the total cost of this board was about $10.

Goal

 

Materials

• A scrap of nice 7-ply plywood*, cut to 1'x2'
• A scrap of 2"x2"*, cut to 1' long
• Two 1 1/2" wood screws*
• Four rubber 'feet' nails* (used for trivets), or thin slices of a wine cork and glue, optional
• Four 1" L-brackets
• Eight 1/2" wood screws
• Paint or varnish*, optional
• Grip tape, optional

 

Tools

• Table saw* (or a skill saw and sawhorses, if you're skilled), or some lumber stores might make the cuts for free
• Drill press, cordless drill, or Yankee drill*
• Hammer*
• Pencil*
• Tape measure*
• Sand paper*: 120 & 200 grit, or thereabouts
• Paint brushes, rags, and necessary cleaning fluids depending on the finish you choose*
• Scissors* or a knife to cut grip tape -- don't use good sewing scissors for this!

Step 1:  Cut wood to size

Measure and mark plywood, then set the fence of a table saw and cut.  Repeat for the 2"x2".  (Some lumber stores might make the cuts for free.)

Step 2:  Sand both pieces

I sanded both pieces smooth using 120, then 200 grit sandpaper.  I slightly beveled the corners as well to minimize the chance of splinters and cuts.  This is easier to do before assembly.

Step 3:  Drill pilot holes

Measure and mark placement of screws, then drill pilot holes using a bit smaller than the diameter of the screw post. 

To attach the boards together, I placed two off-center as I didn't want one in the middle -- it might be uncomfortable on a bare foot when doing a one-legged balance exercise.  This wouldn't matter if you will cover it with grip tape.

To attach the brackets, I made sure they were each approximately one-fourth of the length of the 2"x2" from the end, and off-set them slightly so the screws wouldn't align through the board.

(A Yankee drill is a push-drill.  It takes less space to store than all but the smallest of electric drills, but it may not be cheaper.  I borrowed one to take home as I didn't have the brackets with me on vacation.)

Step 4:  Assemble

Paint or varnish the two wood pieces, as desired, and let dry according to the instructions on the can.  Attach the boards to each other with the long wood screws.  Attach the brackets with the short wood screws.  Hammer in the rubber feet or glue on the slivers of cork to the four bottom corners.  Cut and apply grip tape in a pleasing and/or functional pattern to the top of the board.

Pompom Dangle Earrings

Goal

 

Inspiration

I made these as gifts as they look fun, light, and bold.  I had some yarn and some extra earring hooks.  I found a set of five new chokers at a thrift store for chains and jump rings.  Beautiful, low-cost, easy, custom hand-made gifts!

Materials

• yarn
• a clean fork 
• scissors
• jewelry chain, 4-10" depending on style and preferences
• jewelry pliers
• jump rings, 2-4 per pair
• dangle earring backs, 2 per pair
• a short piece of sewing thread
• loop turner

Step 1:  Make a pompom

Make a small pompom using the fork method linked here.  Use straight "regular" yarn.  The shiny, squiggly kind won't work -- or at least the one I have.  Leave two long tails after you tie the knot around the yarn bundle, and don't trim them when you trim the rest of the yarn.  The 'regular' width variegated yarn (shown in the left picture) used 90 loops, six layers of 15 windings.  The yarn on the right is a custom variegated one my aunt made, with tufts of unspun wool, glitter threads, and small strips of fabric spun into it.  The width varies widely.  I used 40 loops, four layers of 10 windings, and couldn't trim those pompoms quite as small.  They both ended up rather fuzzy, almost felted, and not looking like they're made of yarn.

Step 2:  Add the chain

For the single strand, I used a jump ring at the end of the chain, and double-knotted the yarn tails through the jump ring, then trimmed the tails closely.  The single chain was 1.5-2" long.

For the double chain, I threaded a piece of regular sewing thread through the end link of the chain.  I pushed the loop turner carefully through the middle of the pompom, and caught the thread with the hook, to thread the chain through the center of the pompom.  The double chain was 4-5" long.

Step 3:  Add earring back

Use a jump ring to connect the single strand to a hook earring back.  Test out the length in the mirror  to choose a length you like.

Use a jump ring to connect both ends of the double strand chain to a hook earring back.  Test out the length in the mirror  to choose a length you like.

Step 4:  Repeat steps 1-3 for a matching earring

Results:

I like these, and I'd make them again if and when I know someone who'd wear them.  I might make some for myself, if I get real silver materials and a yarn that won't irritate my sensitive skin.

Bed-Bound and Bored, or "The Perfect Plein Air Sketching Setup"

Inspiration

 

Goal

An injury leaves me unable to sit or stand for long until some months of rehabilitation after surgery, so I need something like a lap desk that will allow me to paint small things in a reclining position, and not go insane from boredom.

I made this one rather large as I don't plan to travel with it.  I will probably make another smaller one in the future, and have a smaller travel palette as well as a collapsible water cup and a better brush carrier system.  I've added notes about what materials I'd change for the next one.  The starred items were "found" items from my house or one of my parents', so the total cost of this board was about $10, not including any art supplies.

 

Materials

• 1/8" plywood*, high quality at least on one side, 18" x 24" (or small enough to fit in a back pack or carry-on for travel), cut to size in my father's shop
• Off-white satin no-prime latex paint* (verathane would be better, or at least gloss)
• One 3" paint brush* borrowed from my mother's shop
• 18" of 1/4" width elastic* for sewing, white (a dark color would show dirt less)
• 17 small finish nails* or brads, make sure the head is broad enough, 3/4" long (shorter would be better)
• One finish hammer,* or other small hammer, borrowed from my mother's shop
• 8" of 1" wide strip stick-on velcro, cut to 4" lengths (or 16" if you have more than one palette to swap)
• One plastic cup* for water, of dimensions you like (a collapsible one would pack better, and I'd prefer two cups, one for washing out the brush and one for rinsing)
• Hot glue* didn't hold the magnet inside the cup, so I'm now trying Scotch superglue gel.*  (I like this one because it doesn't set before you can align the pieces and seems to hold for years.)
• Two strong magnets* (test to make sure they'll hold the water cup in place through the board) 
• A 'clear' industrial strength tape called Tough Tape to tape one magnet on the back of the board  (could have used white duct tape to match the paint)
• One new 'natural' (non-plastic) kitchen sponge
• One 1" binder clip* for holding the sponge
• One wooden suitcase-style art supply case* that was a gift in my childhood, used for storage.  I removed the plastic trays and moved the supplies to a lidded plastic storage box.
• (You could attach a pillow to the back to make it a true lap desk if you prefer.  I have lapdesks I will probably use under this.)
• A carpenter's tape measure*, borrowed

 

Step 1:  Design the board's size and overall layout

Consider not only where you will use the board, but how you will transport it.  Do you want a board that fits luggage you currently own, or will you need to buy something new to keep as a 'kit'?  How big of a board will this be?  Is it necessary that it's all flat-pack or low-profile?  If I'd considered it in advance, I would have cut the board to fit inside the art case.  As it is, I may use velcro or staple in some elastic straps to store supplies in both the top and the bottom of the case.  Eventually I'll get a smaller zippered mesh case with multiple sections so I can carry my supplies more compactly with a smaller travel board.

What are your cost limitations?  This was officially a gift, so I could have spent more, but the options in the art stores were too limited, and I was able to use borrowed and donated supplies.  How crafty are you?  I'm handy, so I enjoyed making it, but it would be possible to purchase gessoboard or a corrugated plastic board that didn't need a table saw or paint.

What are your space and supply limitations?  A verathaned board would mean I could tape directly to the board, but I didn't want the hassle of using verathane or the curing time.  In retrospect, I probably had time.  I spent a week visiting family with garages and shops, but I wouldn't have been able to use verathane at home; low-odor latex may have been okay.  I had access to more tools there than at home.  I wouldn't have wanted to buy a quart of paint and a brush when I only used a few ounces of paint.  I certainly wouldn't have bought an electric saw for this.  I wouldn't have room to store it, never mind the cost!

 

Step 2:  Assemble the supplies first

I had to make a few design changes on the fly.  I did find a drill bit gauge as used in the inspiration post, but the plastic was too flimsy.  I looked at circle templates, but not only was the plastic too flimsy, the circles were too big.  I considered using the plastic carrying tube for the brushes and mounting that somehow on the board, but found that too awkward and limiting -- no room for drawing utensils!  I tried a few different cups and magnets.  I had to reassess how I'd apply the velcro so my standard-sized palettes would fit and still allow space for the paper.

 

Step 3:  Prepare the board

Cut the board to size.  Sand the surfaces smooth and use sandpaper to round the edges.  Dust the board.  Wait for the dust to settle.  Paint the edges and the front; let it dry.  Paint the back; let it dry.  Using ~400 grit sandpaper, sand the front and dust it.  Wait for the dust to settle.  Paint the front of the board and let it dry again.  Repeat as many layers as you see fit. 

 

Step 4: Lay out the materials on the board

Make sure everything will fit the way you want it to.  Put the brushes or water cup and sponge on the other sides if that's more comfortable for you.  Is the result fairly balanced?

 

Step 5: Cut and attach the velcro

I put the rough velcro on the board and the soft velcro on the palettes, in case I want to use the palettes elsewhere and not scratch things.  I cut 4" strips because that fit both of my palettes.  I attached the soft velcro to the back of one of my palettes, then put the rough on that.  I peeled the plastic off of the back of the rough, and used the palette to place the rough on the art board.  I then attached more strips of soft velcro to the rough, peeled the plastic of the backs, and aligned my other palette on top of that.  This was the easiest way to ensure the right alignment and spacing when I couldn't see between the art board and the palettes.

 

Step 6:  Cut and attach the elastic

With the board securely balanced on a chair seat or other sturdy low surface, I leaned the board up against the edge of the shop table and held it in place with my knee.  I folded over the end of the elastic so a frayed edge wouldn't show, centered the finish nail, and carefully tapped it in, seating it flush with the board, creating a dimple in the elastic.  This is tricky with 1/8" plywood, and shorter nails would have been less likely to split the wood.  I put a strip of masking tape over that end of the board to cover any possible splinters.  I stretched the elastic ever so slightly and folded under the other end and nailed it into place.  I measured halfway and added another nail.  I continued to place nails halfway between other nails until they were all spaced about 1" apart.

 

Step 7:  Attach the water cup

Estimate the position of the water cup with the magnet inside and place the other magnet on the back.  Carefully turn the board over and tape over the magnet on the back.  Righting the board, remove the cup and other magnet.  Place glue on the bottom of the magnet (remembering the orientation) and place it inside the cup, then place the cup on the board over the other magnet, using the magnetic force to hold it in place while the glue dries.

 

Step 8:  Attach the sponge

Clean the sponge thoroughly first; mine was shipped with vinegar and who knows what else in it.  Depending on the size of your board and other materials, you may want to cut the sponge in half.  I used a sponge with a scrubby on one side, and separated the scrubby from the sponge enough to insert one side of the binder clip.  You can probably also use a non-scrubby sponge and clip the whole edge of the sponge to the board.

 

Step 9: Ensure your art supplies fit in your storage or travel kit

I have two watercolor palettes in the box, but I probably wouldn't travel with both.  I will use velcro to store some art supplies inside the lid.

The water cup has a lid for dry travel!  I will get a collapsible water cup.  I will also buy brush storage that fits inside the travel / storage kit.

 

 

Step 10:  Add your art supplies to your board and enjoy!

 

Update 12.April.2018:

My first test.  I need to find a small, bright, clip-on LED lamp and I will need a breakfast-in-bed lap-table to keep it off of my legs.  I should have cut a handle just under the top strip of velcro (not seen in this image as it's under the palette).  I can move the palette down so it's easier to reach, but it would be better if I turn it 90˚ as well.  It might have been better to make it less deep, or I may need to move the magnet that holds the water cup.  I need a way to change the water more easily than going to the sink, and I will want to have several small projects to alternate while layers dry.  I did find a place to put the palette while it dries.  I don't know what people do who use them for plein air activities.
 

Update 19.October.2018:

I will cut the board down to size so it fits in the carry case.  This will make it easier to reach the palette and the water cups, as well as help it fit on my lap.  I may need to turn the palette so I have more room for the painting.  I will attach a second magnet for a second water cup, so I can have one for dirty water and one for clean.  I am considering travel brushes and two lidded collapsible water cups that will fit inside the carry case.

Update 02. January.2019:

I have cut the board down to size so it fits in the carry case, repainted the edge, and re-finished the end of the elastic on the other edge.  I've attached a second magnet for a second water cup.  I now have a set of four travel brushes and one lidded collapsible water cup that will fit inside the case.




More pictures to follow.

 

 

Inktober, Day 8: Crooked

The prompt was "Crooked."  I drew some crooked trees that can be colored or not by the recipient.

 

Materials

• Pigma Micron 005 pen
• H hardness drawing pencil
• White erasers of various shapes and sizes
• Cold-pressed watercolor paper cut to 3.5x5" 

 

 

Step 1:  Sketch with a pencil

Sketch the general shapes, then add the patterns.

 

Step 2:  Draw with a pen

Using the 005, outline the shapes, then add the patterns

 

Step 3:  Carefully erase the pencil marks

Results

I would repeat this.  It was quick and the patterns could be varied.  I would sketch in my patterns with a pencil before drawing them freehand in ink, next time.  I do like it well enough to give as a gift.

Piecework Christmas Stockings

Goal

 

Inspiration

My eldest aunt was an award-winning quilter and designer.  She made me the red Christmas stocking when I was little.  I used that for the general shape and size.  She also made quilts with the "log cabin" design, including one that was intentionally askew she called the "drunken homesteader."  I used this for my template.  My mother does piecework and has an array of leftover pieces.  This was my first attempt at piecework. 

  

 

Materials

• Large graph paper, pencil, eraser, ruler, pen, and marker for the template
• Scraps of fabrics in reds, greens, holiday fabrics, and a few complementary colors
• Cork board and pins for layout
• Sewing machine and threads in similar colors
• Patience, a seam ripper, and extra pieces

 

Step 1:  Outline the shape with a pencil on a large sheet of graph paper

Plain paper would also work, but graph paper will make the next step easier.

 

Step 2a:  Choose square size

I chose squares not quite as wide as the leg of the stocking, and centered them in the leg, so I'd have two diagonal squares vertically and a total of three whole squares visible.  I considered the size of the pieces I could cut from existing scraps.  I decided each square would have one square center and two rows of "logs".  You may have to adjust your stocking size (and outline).

 

Step 2b:  Determine piece sizes

Don't forget to account for seam allowance.  I chose piece sizes based on what I could cut into squares and logs out of the existing small pieces.  The square size relative to the stocking size may change your piece size, or your piece sizes might determine the number of log rows and square size.

 

Step 2c:  Choose color pattern

Each square alternates a red or green center.  The red centers have a first row of logs surrounding it in green, and the second row of logs around that are red, and vice versa for the green centers.  The color pattern may change the number of log rows you include. 

I also chose a unique "signature" center for each person I was gifting, so they could easily identify their stockings--an orange clownfish and a blue clownfish for each sibling and a silver snowflake on a black background for the parent.  This also indicates the accessory color for each stocking.  The orange clownfish also has magenta douches and the blue clownfish has teal and purple.  The snowflake has black and more earthy reds and greens.

 

Step 3:  Determine number of squares

A stocking is a fairly small item, so I chose to make unique squares for all but the smallest corners of partial squares--those were cut off of other squares.  On larger or more symmetrical items I might use half of each edge square on another side.

 

Step 4: Cut center squares

One center per square, but cut extra in case you need to swap for overall color palette, or in case you damage some.  Choose larger patterns and cut an identifiable piece.

 

Step 5: Calculate rough numbers of logs of each size, and cut extra

Four small logs and four large logs per square.  Roughly half reds and half greens, with some other Christmasy-enough and sparkly fabrics.  Choose smaller patterns, some solids, some tone-on-tone, some vibrantly patterned.  The more variety the better, but you will be repeating some of course.

 

Step 6: Arrange center squares

Array them together and substitute individual centers until the whole array is pleasing.  Lay them out on the template, pinning them to the upright cork board through the paper.

 

Step 7:  Choose four small logs and four large logs for each square

Array them together and substitute individual centers until the whole array is pleasing.  Lay them out on the template, pinning them to the upright cork board through the paper, as in the image on the left.  Then arrange them into squares so you have a rough idea that no two that are too similar will be next to each other, as in the image on the right.  Notice the "stacks" of each size and color 'type' pinned to the sides of each paper.  These have randomized pieces of similar pattern and color.  Each set of four was one solid, one tonal, one patterned, and one 'special', a.k.a. Christmas or glitter.  As you may see, 'solid' sometimes included a simple polka dot or stripe.  Don't be too literal with the categories.

 

 

Step 8:  Step back (or walk away for a while), to see if you like the overall effect

Change out any pieces that seem too obvious or individual.

 

Step 9a:  Sew the first 'ring' of logs

Unpin one center and its small logs so you have a stack of short logs.  Sew the inner logs to the center, sort of in a circle.  (I'm not going to detail this, because I don't have a step-by-step, and it's been too long since I made these.)  Pin each partially finished square back into place.

 

Step 9b:  Iron and trim the squares

Unpin the unfinished squares one-by-one and iron them, then trim each to square.

 

Step 10a:  Sew the first 'ring' of logs

Unpin one center and its large logs so you have a large of short logs.  Sew the outer logs to the inner ones, sort of in a circle.  (I'm not going to detail this, because I don't have a step-by-step, and it's been too long since I made these.)  Pin each finished square back into place.

 

Step 10b:  Iron and trim the squares

Unpin the finished squares one-by-one and iron them, then trim each to square and the size of the squares on your template, plus a seam allowance.

 

Step 11a:  Sew the squares into rows

Unpin one row of squares and stack them, then sew the first two together, and add the third to the second, etc.  Pin the row back into place.

 

Step 11b: Iron and trim the rows

Unpin the finished rows one-by-one and iron them, then trim each so they're all the same width.

 

Step 12a:  Sew the rows into together

Unpin the rows and stack them, then sew the first two together, and add the third to the second, etc.  Pin the whole piece back into place.

 

Step 12b:  Iron and trim the stocking

Unpin the piece and iron it, then trim the stocking to the correct shape, including a seam allowance.

 

Step 13:  Choose and cut batting and backing and/or lining fabrics

The backing fabric should be a complementary large-print Christmas fabric.  Something pleasant, but this will not be seen as much.  The lining fabric should be complementary, but can be plain as it will be inside.  Layer the backing fabric, batting, two layers of lining fabric, and another layer of batting behind the stocking.  Using the stocking as a template, cut the other layers. 

 

Step 14:  Sew the batting to the outer fabric for front and back

 

Step 15:  Sew lining pieces together with 'good sides' facing each other

This hides the seams of the stocking between the batting and the lining.

 

Step 16:  Slide the lining inside the stocking

Turn down the top edges so they're inside and iron them to stay in place.

 

Step 17:  Design and cut the pieces for the trim and the loop

The loop doesn't need batting--it's a strip of folded cloth sewn length-wise inside-out and turned right-side out.  I used a double layer of batting for the cuff, and wrapped a double width piece of white fabric around it so there would not be a seam at the top of the cuff.  Iron it so it has the correct shape.

 

Step 18:  Sew the cuff and loop to the stocking

Slide the unfinished edges of the cuff between the unfinished turned-down edges of the stocking.  Place the loop and tuck it's unfinished edges in the same way.  Pin these edges.  Sew the cuff to the top of the stocking, effectively extending the length of the stocking so you don't cover any of the piecework.

 

Step 19:  Tack the lining to stocking

By hand, in a few places around the edge, conceal tack stitches in the seams, anchoring the inner lining so it doesn't invert when presents are removed.

 

 Results

 

I would repeat this, but I'd make a few adjustments to the pattern.  I'd probably make the stocking taller with less interesting squares at the top, so I could turn the cuff down over them.  I'd worry less about the edge squares being unique as it would be difficult to tell one half from the other when cut apart, since the log fabrics are so varied.  I might change the way I assemble the entire stocking, but I'd have to look at patterns for ideas.  I did this all on-the-fly, as it were, without any pattern but the one that evolved as I went along. 

Watercolor Bohr Atom

I did this without masking fluid, and was asking myself HOW people do such things, and that's how I learned of masking!

Materials

• Some cold-press watercolor paper, ~15x20".
• Some quality watercolor brushes my aunt gave me upon her trip from England.
• A 24 pan set of Yarka St. Petersburg Artists' Watercolors she also gave me.
• A set of 42+ Derwent watercolor pencils.
• A jar for water, and lots of rinses and refills.

 

Results

This was incredibly difficult without masking fluid, and I made it as a gift, so I may not have a reason to repeat it, but now that I know about masking fluid, I rather want to, just to play!

Inktober Day 4: Underwater

The prompt was "Underwater."  So here's a glass squid 'underwater' in a glass ink bottle.

 

Materials

• Pigma Micron 005 and 02 pens
• H hardness drawing pencil
• White erasers of various shapes and sizes
• Cold-pressed watercolor paper cut to 3.5x5" 

 

 

Step 1:  Sketch, detail, and shade with a pencil

Sketch the outlines, then sketch in the details such as the suckers, then add the shading and contours.

 

Step 2:  Draw with pens

Using the 005, lightly sketch the edges of the glass jar, label, lettering, and cork.  Add the "inside edge" of the jar.  Draw the suckers of the squid and then add the remaining lines of the squid arms.  Draw the squid head and contour the jar and cork.  Add the details of the water and shade under/behind the squid.  Go over the label, lettering, cork, and outer edges of the jar with the 02.

 

Step 3:  Carefully erase the pencil marks

Results

This took much longer than most and I don't like shading and contouring with pens instead of pencils.  If I had shading markers, I might revisit this one, as I do find it fun and interesting.  It will definitely work as a gift!