Friday, November 3, 2017

Inktober, Day 8: Crooked

The prompt was "Crooked."  I drew some crooked trees that can be colored or not by the recipient.

 

Materials

  • Pigma Micron 005 pen
  • H hardness drawing pencil
  • White erasers of various shapes and sizes
  • Cold-pressed watercolor paper cut to 3.5x5" 
 



 

Step 1:  Sketch with a pencil

Sketch the general shapes, then add the patterns.

 

Step 2:  Draw with a pen

Using the 005, outline the shapes, then add the patterns

 

Step 3:  Carefully erase the pencil marks


Results

I would repeat this.  It was quick and the patterns could be varied.  I would sketch in my patterns with a pencil before drawing them freehand in ink, next time.  I do like it well enough to give as a gift.

Piecework Christmas Stockings

Goal

 

Inspiration

My eldest aunt was an award-winning quilter and designer.  She made me the red Christmas stocking when I was little.  I used that for the general shape and size.  She also made quilts with the "log cabin" design, including one that was intentionally askew she called the "drunken homesteader."  I used this for my template.  My mother does piecework and has an array of leftover pieces.  This was my first attempt at piecework. 


  

 

Materials

  • Large graph paper, pencil, eraser, ruler, pen, and marker for the template
  • Scraps of fabrics in reds, greens, holiday fabrics, and a few complementary colors
  • Cork board and pins for layout
  • Sewing machine and threads in similar colors
  • Patience, a seam ripper, and extra pieces

 

Step 1:  Outline the shape with a pencil on a large sheet of graph paper


Plain paper would also work, but graph paper will make the next step easier.

 

Step 2a:  Choose square size


I chose squares not quite as wide as the leg of the stocking, and centered them in the leg, so I'd have two diagonal squares vertically and a total of three whole squares visible.  I considered the size of the pieces I could cut from existing scraps.  I decided each square would have one square center and two rows of "logs".  You may have to adjust your stocking size (and outline).


 

Step 2b:  Determine piece sizes


Don't forget to account for seam allowance.  I chose piece sizes based on what I could cut into squares and logs out of the existing small pieces.  The square size relative to the stocking size may change your piece size, or your piece sizes might determine the number of log rows and square size.

 

Step 2c:  Choose color pattern


Each square alternates a red or green center.  The red centers have a first row of logs surrounding it in green, and the second row of logs around that are red, and vice versa for the green centers.  The color pattern may change the number of log rows you include. 

I also chose a unique "signature" center for each person I was gifting, so they could easily identify their stockings--an orange clownfish and a blue clownfish for each sibling and a silver snowflake on a black background for the parent.  This also indicates the accessory color for each stocking.  The orange clownfish also has magenta douches and the blue clownfish has teal and purple.  The snowflake has black and more earthy reds and greens.

 

Step 3:  Determine number of squares

A stocking is a fairly small item, so I chose to make unique squares for all but the smallest corners of partial squares--those were cut off of other squares.  On larger or more symmetrical items I might use half of each edge square on another side.

 

Step 4: Cut center squares

One center per square, but cut extra in case you need to swap for overall color palette, or in case you damage some.  Choose larger patterns and cut an identifiable piece.

 

Step 5: Calculate rough numbers of logs of each size, and cut extra

Four small logs and four large logs per square.  Roughly half reds and half greens, with some other Christmasy-enough and sparkly fabrics.  Choose smaller patterns, some solids, some tone-on-tone, some vibrantly patterned.  The more variety the better, but you will be repeating some of course.

 

Step 6: Arrange center squares

Array them together and substitute individual centers until the whole array is pleasing.  Lay them out on the template, pinning them to the upright cork board through the paper.

 

Step 7:  Choose four small logs and four large logs for each square

Array them together and substitute individual centers until the whole array is pleasing.  Lay them out on the template, pinning them to the upright cork board through the paper, as in the image on the left.  Then arrange them into squares so you have a rough idea that no two that are too similar will be next to each other, as in the image on the right.  Notice the "stacks" of each size and color 'type' pinned to the sides of each paper.  These have randomized pieces of similar pattern and color.  Each set of four was one solid, one tonal, one patterned, and one 'special', a.k.a. Christmas or glitter.  As you may see, 'solid' sometimes included a simple polka dot or stripe.  Don't be too literal with the categories.


 

Step 8:  Step back (or walk away for a while), to see if you like the overall effect

Change out any pieces that seem too obvious or individual.


 

Step 9a:  Sew the first 'ring' of logs

Unpin one center and its small logs so you have a stack of short logs.  Sew the inner logs to the center, sort of in a circle.  (I'm not going to detail this, because I don't have a step-by-step, and it's been too long since I made these.)  Pin each partially finished square back into place.

 

Step 9b:  Iron and trim the squares

Unpin the unfinished squares one-by-one and iron them, then trim each to square.

 

Step 10a:  Sew the first 'ring' of logs

Unpin one center and its large logs so you have a large of short logs.  Sew the outer logs to the inner ones, sort of in a circle.  (I'm not going to detail this, because I don't have a step-by-step, and it's been too long since I made these.)  Pin each finished square back into place.

 

Step 10b:  Iron and trim the squares

Unpin the finished squares one-by-one and iron them, then trim each to square and the size of the squares on your template, plus a seam allowance.

 

Step 11a:  Sew the squares into rows

Unpin one row of squares and stack them, then sew the first two together, and add the third to the second, etc.  Pin the row back into place.

 

Step 11b: Iron and trim the rows

Unpin the finished rows one-by-one and iron them, then trim each so they're all the same width.

 

Step 12a:  Sew the rows into together

Unpin the rows and stack them, then sew the first two together, and add the third to the second, etc.  Pin the whole piece back into place.


 

Step 12b:  Iron and trim the stocking

Unpin the piece and iron it, then trim the stocking to the correct shape, including a seam allowance.

 

Step 13:  Choose and cut batting and backing and/or lining fabrics

The backing fabric should be a complementary large-print Christmas fabric.  Something pleasant, but this will not be seen as much.  The lining fabric should be complementary, but can be plain as it will be inside.  Layer the backing fabric, batting, two layers of lining fabric, and another layer of batting behind the stocking.  Using the stocking as a template, cut the other layers. 

 

Step 14:  Sew the batting to the outer fabric for front and back

 

Step 15:  Sew lining pieces together with 'good sides' facing each other

This hides the seams of the stocking between the batting and the lining.

 

Step 16:  Slide the lining inside the stocking

Turn down the top edges so they're inside and iron them to stay in place.

 

Step 17:  Design and cut the pieces for the trim and the loop

The loop doesn't need batting--it's a strip of folded cloth sewn length-wise inside-out and turned right-side out.  I used a double layer of batting for the cuff, and wrapped a double width piece of white fabric around it so there would not be a seam at the top of the cuff.  Iron it so it has the correct shape.

 

Step 18:  Sew the cuff and loop to the stocking

Slide the unfinished edges of the cuff between the unfinished turned-down edges of the stocking.  Place the loop and tuck it's unfinished edges in the same way.  Pin these edges.  Sew the cuff to the top of the stocking, effectively extending the length of the stocking so you don't cover any of the piecework.

 

Step 19:  Tack the lining to stocking

By hand, in a few places around the edge, conceal tack stitches in the seams, anchoring the inner lining so it doesn't invert when presents are removed.


 

 Results

 



I would repeat this, but I'd make a few adjustments to the pattern.  I'd probably make the stocking taller with less interesting squares at the top, so I could turn the cuff down over them.  I'd worry less about the edge squares being unique as it would be difficult to tell one half from the other when cut apart, since the log fabrics are so varied.  I might change the way I assemble the entire stocking, but I'd have to look at patterns for ideas.  I did this all on-the-fly, as it were, without any pattern but the one that evolved as I went along. 

Wednesday, November 1, 2017

Watercolor Bohr Atom



I did this without masking fluid, and was asking myself HOW people do such things, and that's how I learned of masking!

Materials

  • Some cold-press watercolor paper, ~15x20".
  • Some quality watercolor brushes my aunt gave me upon her trip from England.
  • A 24 pan set of Yarka St. Petersburg Artists' Watercolors she also gave me.
  • A set of 42+ Derwent watercolor pencils.
  • A jar for water, and lots of rinses and refills.

 

Results

This was incredibly difficult without masking fluid, and I made it as a gift, so I may not have a reason to repeat it, but now that I know about masking fluid, I rather want to, just to play!

Inktober Day 4: Underwater

The prompt was "Underwater."  So here's a glass squid 'underwater' in a glass ink bottle.

 

Materials

  • Pigma Micron 005 and 02 pens
  • H hardness drawing pencil
  • White erasers of various shapes and sizes
  • Cold-pressed watercolor paper cut to 3.5x5" 
 


 

Step 1:  Sketch, detail, and shade with a pencil

Sketch the outlines, then sketch in the details such as the suckers, then add the shading and contours.

 

Step 2:  Draw with pens

Using the 005, lightly sketch the edges of the glass jar, label, lettering, and cork.  Add the "inside edge" of the jar.  Draw the suckers of the squid and then add the remaining lines of the squid arms.  Draw the squid head and contour the jar and cork.  Add the details of the water and shade under/behind the squid.  Go over the label, lettering, cork, and outer edges of the jar with the 02.

 

Step 3:  Carefully erase the pencil marks


Results

This took much longer than most and I don't like shading and contouring with pens instead of pencils.  If I had shading markers, I might revisit this one, as I do find it fun and interesting.  It will definitely work as a gift!