Everyday Watercolor

Everyday Watercolor: Learn to Paint Watercolor in 30 Days

I liked the style of the artist's work and the idea that I could essentially do small watercolor doodles when I don't have a lot of time or energy.  These skill practice doodles will make a set of cards I will give as a gift.  True multi-tasking!

Materials

• The materials in my new 'portable' watercolor kit.

 

Step 1:  Read & follow along with each section. 

So far, I've been reading a section per day, and working on that section the next day.  This seems easier than trying to do them simultaneously, although I've already made mistakes based on misreading.

 

Step 2:  Assess current materials.

I know I'll probably need some new or different brushes, but the selection is overwhelming.  This book suggests to start with three round brushes, sizes 2, 6, and 16, Kolinsky sable if possible, Princeton Synthetic Sable if not.  Referring to Jane Blundell's blog (as I have in the past), I've decided on travel brushes in sizes 2, 6, and 12 (as 16 is not available), or 10 as it's about 1/3 the cost of the 12.  I can get a cheaper bristle for a mop or wash brush.  I can use these at home as well, or continue with my current selection.

Currently I have a few pads and blocks of watercolor papers.  I usually cut a larger piece down to card size and paint on it without taping it down.  If it's easier to paint on blocks and let them dry on the block, I'd need more blocks.  I need more places to tape paper down if I do tape them.

Use two water cups; one for dirty water and one for clean.

DIY Rocker Balance Board

Inspiration

I have access to a Bosu ball in the gym, but I needed a balance board to use on vacation, and decided to bring it home so I can do my PT exercises at home if I can't make it to the gym.  Bosu balls are probably expensive and are too awkward to be any sort of portable.  The balance board like the one my PT showed me is $80 online.  The starred items were "found" items from my house or one of my parents', so the total cost of this board was about $10.

Goal

 

Materials

• A scrap of nice 7-ply plywood*, cut to 1'x2'
• A scrap of 2"x2"*, cut to 1' long
• Two 1 1/2" wood screws*
• Four rubber 'feet' nails* (used for trivets), or thin slices of a wine cork and glue, optional
• Four 1" L-brackets
• Eight 1/2" wood screws
• Paint or varnish*, optional
• Grip tape, optional

 

Tools

• Table saw* (or a skill saw and sawhorses, if you're skilled), or some lumber stores might make the cuts for free
• Drill press, cordless drill, or Yankee drill*
• Hammer*
• Pencil*
• Tape measure*
• Sand paper*: 120 & 200 grit, or thereabouts
• Paint brushes, rags, and necessary cleaning fluids depending on the finish you choose*
• Scissors* or a knife to cut grip tape -- don't use good sewing scissors for this!

Step 1:  Cut wood to size

Measure and mark plywood, then set the fence of a table saw and cut.  Repeat for the 2"x2".  (Some lumber stores might make the cuts for free.)

Step 2:  Sand both pieces

I sanded both pieces smooth using 120, then 200 grit sandpaper.  I slightly beveled the corners as well to minimize the chance of splinters and cuts.  This is easier to do before assembly.

Step 3:  Drill pilot holes

Measure and mark placement of screws, then drill pilot holes using a bit smaller than the diameter of the screw post. 

To attach the boards together, I placed two off-center as I didn't want one in the middle -- it might be uncomfortable on a bare foot when doing a one-legged balance exercise.  This wouldn't matter if you will cover it with grip tape.

To attach the brackets, I made sure they were each approximately one-fourth of the length of the 2"x2" from the end, and off-set them slightly so the screws wouldn't align through the board.

(A Yankee drill is a push-drill.  It takes less space to store than all but the smallest of electric drills, but it may not be cheaper.  I borrowed one to take home as I didn't have the brackets with me on vacation.)

Step 4:  Assemble

Paint or varnish the two wood pieces, as desired, and let dry according to the instructions on the can.  Attach the boards to each other with the long wood screws.  Attach the brackets with the short wood screws.  Hammer in the rubber feet or glue on the slivers of cork to the four bottom corners.  Cut and apply grip tape in a pleasing and/or functional pattern to the top of the board.

Pompom Dangle Earrings

Goal

 

Inspiration

I made these as gifts as they look fun, light, and bold.  I had some yarn and some extra earring hooks.  I found a set of five new chokers at a thrift store for chains and jump rings.  Beautiful, low-cost, easy, custom hand-made gifts!

Materials

• yarn
• a clean fork 
• scissors
• jewelry chain, 4-10" depending on style and preferences
• jewelry pliers
• jump rings, 2-4 per pair
• dangle earring backs, 2 per pair
• a short piece of sewing thread
• loop turner

Step 1:  Make a pompom

Make a small pompom using the fork method linked here.  Use straight "regular" yarn.  The shiny, squiggly kind won't work -- or at least the one I have.  Leave two long tails after you tie the knot around the yarn bundle, and don't trim them when you trim the rest of the yarn.  The 'regular' width variegated yarn (shown in the left picture) used 90 loops, six layers of 15 windings.  The yarn on the right is a custom variegated one my aunt made, with tufts of unspun wool, glitter threads, and small strips of fabric spun into it.  The width varies widely.  I used 40 loops, four layers of 10 windings, and couldn't trim those pompoms quite as small.  They both ended up rather fuzzy, almost felted, and not looking like they're made of yarn.

Step 2:  Add the chain

For the single strand, I used a jump ring at the end of the chain, and double-knotted the yarn tails through the jump ring, then trimmed the tails closely.  The single chain was 1.5-2" long.

For the double chain, I threaded a piece of regular sewing thread through the end link of the chain.  I pushed the loop turner carefully through the middle of the pompom, and caught the thread with the hook, to thread the chain through the center of the pompom.  The double chain was 4-5" long.

Step 3:  Add earring back

Use a jump ring to connect the single strand to a hook earring back.  Test out the length in the mirror  to choose a length you like.

Use a jump ring to connect both ends of the double strand chain to a hook earring back.  Test out the length in the mirror  to choose a length you like.

Step 4:  Repeat steps 1-3 for a matching earring

Results:

I like these, and I'd make them again if and when I know someone who'd wear them.  I might make some for myself, if I get real silver materials and a yarn that won't irritate my sensitive skin.

Bed-Bound and Bored, or "The Perfect Plein Air Sketching Setup"

Inspiration

 

Goal

An injury leaves me unable to sit or stand for long until some months of rehabilitation after surgery, so I need something like a lap desk that will allow me to paint small things in a reclining position, and not go insane from boredom.

I made this one rather large as I don't plan to travel with it.  I will probably make another smaller one in the future, and have a smaller travel palette as well as a collapsible water cup and a better brush carrier system.  I've added notes about what materials I'd change for the next one.  The starred items were "found" items from my house or one of my parents', so the total cost of this board was about $10, not including any art supplies.

 

Materials

• 1/8" plywood*, high quality at least on one side, 18" x 24" (or small enough to fit in a back pack or carry-on for travel), cut to size in my father's shop
• Off-white satin no-prime latex paint* (verathane would be better, or at least gloss)
• One 3" paint brush* borrowed from my mother's shop
• 18" of 1/4" width elastic* for sewing, white (a dark color would show dirt less)
• 17 small finish nails* or brads, make sure the head is broad enough, 3/4" long (shorter would be better)
• One finish hammer,* or other small hammer, borrowed from my mother's shop
• 8" of 1" wide strip stick-on velcro, cut to 4" lengths (or 16" if you have more than one palette to swap)
• One plastic cup* for water, of dimensions you like (a collapsible one would pack better, and I'd prefer two cups, one for washing out the brush and one for rinsing)
• Hot glue* didn't hold the magnet inside the cup, so I'm now trying Scotch superglue gel.*  (I like this one because it doesn't set before you can align the pieces and seems to hold for years.)
• Two strong magnets* (test to make sure they'll hold the water cup in place through the board) 
• A 'clear' industrial strength tape called Tough Tape to tape one magnet on the back of the board  (could have used white duct tape to match the paint)
• One new 'natural' (non-plastic) kitchen sponge
• One 1" binder clip* for holding the sponge
• One wooden suitcase-style art supply case* that was a gift in my childhood, used for storage.  I removed the plastic trays and moved the supplies to a lidded plastic storage box.
• (You could attach a pillow to the back to make it a true lap desk if you prefer.  I have lapdesks I will probably use under this.)
• A carpenter's tape measure*, borrowed

 

Step 1:  Design the board's size and overall layout

Consider not only where you will use the board, but how you will transport it.  Do you want a board that fits luggage you currently own, or will you need to buy something new to keep as a 'kit'?  How big of a board will this be?  Is it necessary that it's all flat-pack or low-profile?  If I'd considered it in advance, I would have cut the board to fit inside the art case.  As it is, I may use velcro or staple in some elastic straps to store supplies in both the top and the bottom of the case.  Eventually I'll get a smaller zippered mesh case with multiple sections so I can carry my supplies more compactly with a smaller travel board.

What are your cost limitations?  This was officially a gift, so I could have spent more, but the options in the art stores were too limited, and I was able to use borrowed and donated supplies.  How crafty are you?  I'm handy, so I enjoyed making it, but it would be possible to purchase gessoboard or a corrugated plastic board that didn't need a table saw or paint.

What are your space and supply limitations?  A verathaned board would mean I could tape directly to the board, but I didn't want the hassle of using verathane or the curing time.  In retrospect, I probably had time.  I spent a week visiting family with garages and shops, but I wouldn't have been able to use verathane at home; low-odor latex may have been okay.  I had access to more tools there than at home.  I wouldn't have wanted to buy a quart of paint and a brush when I only used a few ounces of paint.  I certainly wouldn't have bought an electric saw for this.  I wouldn't have room to store it, never mind the cost!

 

Step 2:  Assemble the supplies first

I had to make a few design changes on the fly.  I did find a drill bit gauge as used in the inspiration post, but the plastic was too flimsy.  I looked at circle templates, but not only was the plastic too flimsy, the circles were too big.  I considered using the plastic carrying tube for the brushes and mounting that somehow on the board, but found that too awkward and limiting -- no room for drawing utensils!  I tried a few different cups and magnets.  I had to reassess how I'd apply the velcro so my standard-sized palettes would fit and still allow space for the paper.

 

Step 3:  Prepare the board

Cut the board to size.  Sand the surfaces smooth and use sandpaper to round the edges.  Dust the board.  Wait for the dust to settle.  Paint the edges and the front; let it dry.  Paint the back; let it dry.  Using ~400 grit sandpaper, sand the front and dust it.  Wait for the dust to settle.  Paint the front of the board and let it dry again.  Repeat as many layers as you see fit. 

 

Step 4: Lay out the materials on the board

Make sure everything will fit the way you want it to.  Put the brushes or water cup and sponge on the other sides if that's more comfortable for you.  Is the result fairly balanced?

 

Step 5: Cut and attach the velcro

I put the rough velcro on the board and the soft velcro on the palettes, in case I want to use the palettes elsewhere and not scratch things.  I cut 4" strips because that fit both of my palettes.  I attached the soft velcro to the back of one of my palettes, then put the rough on that.  I peeled the plastic off of the back of the rough, and used the palette to place the rough on the art board.  I then attached more strips of soft velcro to the rough, peeled the plastic of the backs, and aligned my other palette on top of that.  This was the easiest way to ensure the right alignment and spacing when I couldn't see between the art board and the palettes.

 

Step 6:  Cut and attach the elastic

With the board securely balanced on a chair seat or other sturdy low surface, I leaned the board up against the edge of the shop table and held it in place with my knee.  I folded over the end of the elastic so a frayed edge wouldn't show, centered the finish nail, and carefully tapped it in, seating it flush with the board, creating a dimple in the elastic.  This is tricky with 1/8" plywood, and shorter nails would have been less likely to split the wood.  I put a strip of masking tape over that end of the board to cover any possible splinters.  I stretched the elastic ever so slightly and folded under the other end and nailed it into place.  I measured halfway and added another nail.  I continued to place nails halfway between other nails until they were all spaced about 1" apart.

 

Step 7:  Attach the water cup

Estimate the position of the water cup with the magnet inside and place the other magnet on the back.  Carefully turn the board over and tape over the magnet on the back.  Righting the board, remove the cup and other magnet.  Place glue on the bottom of the magnet (remembering the orientation) and place it inside the cup, then place the cup on the board over the other magnet, using the magnetic force to hold it in place while the glue dries.

 

Step 8:  Attach the sponge

Clean the sponge thoroughly first; mine was shipped with vinegar and who knows what else in it.  Depending on the size of your board and other materials, you may want to cut the sponge in half.  I used a sponge with a scrubby on one side, and separated the scrubby from the sponge enough to insert one side of the binder clip.  You can probably also use a non-scrubby sponge and clip the whole edge of the sponge to the board.

 

Step 9: Ensure your art supplies fit in your storage or travel kit

I have two watercolor palettes in the box, but I probably wouldn't travel with both.  I will use velcro to store some art supplies inside the lid.

The water cup has a lid for dry travel!  I will get a collapsible water cup.  I will also buy brush storage that fits inside the travel / storage kit.

 

 

Step 10:  Add your art supplies to your board and enjoy!

 

Update 12.April.2018:

My first test.  I need to find a small, bright, clip-on LED lamp and I will need a breakfast-in-bed lap-table to keep it off of my legs.  I should have cut a handle just under the top strip of velcro (not seen in this image as it's under the palette).  I can move the palette down so it's easier to reach, but it would be better if I turn it 90˚ as well.  It might have been better to make it less deep, or I may need to move the magnet that holds the water cup.  I need a way to change the water more easily than going to the sink, and I will want to have several small projects to alternate while layers dry.  I did find a place to put the palette while it dries.  I don't know what people do who use them for plein air activities.
 

Update 19.October.2018:

I will cut the board down to size so it fits in the carry case.  This will make it easier to reach the palette and the water cups, as well as help it fit on my lap.  I may need to turn the palette so I have more room for the painting.  I will attach a second magnet for a second water cup, so I can have one for dirty water and one for clean.  I am considering travel brushes and two lidded collapsible water cups that will fit inside the carry case.

Update 02. January.2019:

I have cut the board down to size so it fits in the carry case, repainted the edge, and re-finished the end of the elastic on the other edge.  I've attached a second magnet for a second water cup.  I now have a set of four travel brushes and one lidded collapsible water cup that will fit inside the case.




More pictures to follow.