Art Yarn Pigeon Eye Stitch Pidge Scarf

Inspiration

I want to make some Christmas gifts and practice knitting on small projects.

Materials

• partial skein of yarn, Pagewood Farms similar to U-Knitted Nations Lana de Nube, est. 83 yds.
• US size 19 (15.0 mm) plastic needles, 14"
• a variation on print-to-PDF version of the free pattern
• a single large signature button
• a sewing needle and thread to match the button

Step 1:  Match found yarns to vintage buttons

I have a stash of yarns I found in the art supply exchange and some were gifts.

I have a selection of vintage buttons from mom's and aunts' stashes; some were my great-grandmother's too.

I tried to pair a selection of both so I can make 7-8 different ones.

Step 2:  Match yarns to patterns

I found a variety of free pidge scarf patterns on Ravelry.com and matched the yarns and needles I have to appropriate patterns.  I chose to start with a Triangle Pidge Scarf (called a Wasabi Cowl for the color, maybe) as it uses a fairly simple set of stitches.  I used keyrings without fobs for stitch markers and this worked fairly well.

Step 3:  Follow the pattern instructions

I relied on a number of YouTube videos to do M1R (Make 1 Right) increase and M1L (Make 1 Left) increase.  I used keyrings without fobs for stitch markers and this worked fairly well.

Step 4:  Evaluate the progress

I chose that pattern because the pictured yarn seemed most similar to mine, and I had that size needles.  I decided this art yarn was too variable in width for this stitch, so I frogged the project.

Step 5:  Start a new project

I searched Ravelry for scarves with similar yarn and I even tried googling "best knit stitches for handspun art yarn" to no avail.  I had been working on a Half-Linen Stitch Pidge Scarf and was liking the results, so I decided to try the stitch with this yarn.  I cast on 13 stitches as that seemed like a good width for a warm winter cowl, and knit two rows of Garter Stitch as I'd thought the four rows in the pattern were too broad.  I only did one knit edge stitch on each end of each row, and later discovered that with the odd number of stitches, this is actually called a Pigeon Eye Stitch, if I'm understanding it correctly.

Step 6:  Evaluate the length

I've been testing the length as I go along by wrapping it around my own neck and trying to envision it with the buttons in use, hoping that the recipient has a similar neck size.

Step 7:  Add buttonholes, if necessary

This particular yarn and stitch have large enough holes I don't need to specifically include a buttonhole for the button I chose -- I don't want it to be too loose when fastened!

Step 8:  Cast off

I used the __________ cast off (include link).

Step 9:  Add buttons

I played with the fit and the lie of the scarf around my own neck to determine where I thought the button would look and work best, and then sewed it on using doubled matching embroidery floss and an embroidery needle.

Step 10:  Block

I used the __________ blocking method (include link).  I had some cardboard and some extra contact paper I put on it so hopefully the scarf would dry faster rather than making the cardboard wet.

Results

I like the look, but I'm waiting for it to finish drying before I can confirm.

WORK IN PROGRESS

Knitting Tips

Inspiration

I found a break in my yarn about two feet down the line after I'd successfully done my first eight rows.  Not wanting to frog it, I turned to internet videos for help!

Warning, these are mostly done by right-handed knitters.  I'm pretty good at flipping images in my head, but I may eventually seek specifically left-handed demonstrations.

Splicing Yarn

Whether you're working stripes, need to use more than one skein of yarn, or found a break in your upcycled yarn ball, there are at least three ways to switch yarns.  Some work better for stripes or for natural animal fibers.

Since I don't know the fiber content of my found yarn, and I don't want a hole in the project, I chose the option for changing colors. 

Weaving in Ends

Now that I've connected the new yarn strand, I need to learn how to weave in the ends.  Weaving in ends as you go, makes the stitches look double thick.  There's another method that shows on the back that I don't know if I want to use in a scarf.  I'll check this one next.

Unraveling Knitting the Right Way

So far when I've unraveled anything, I've frogged it all the way.  I won't want to do that when I'm further along in a project, so I know I'll need to be able to unravel correctly.  This video has three methods.

Continental Style vs. English Style Knitting

I happened to see this video title.  It seems Continental Style is faster and more efficient.  The only difference I now see, is that the yarn is held in your non-dominant hand, allowing the two hands to work in concert.  After watching this I now realize why I have difficulty working the yarn with my dominant hand and I keep switching hands.  I also notice I have instinctually used my fingers to stretch loops open and stop stitches from sliding.

Left Diagonal Slip Stitch

For a future project.

 

WORK IN PROGRESS

Half-Linen Stitch Pidge Scarf

Inspiration

I want to make some Christmas gifts and practice knitting on small projects.

Materials

• a found partial skein of yarn -- #4 orange/pink/purple multi, probably acrylic, est. 153 yds.
• US size 8 (5.0 mm) metal needles, 14"
• a print-to-PDF version of the free pattern 
• two round dark purple sphere buttons, ~3/8" dia.
• a sewing needle and thread to match the buttons 

Step 1:  Match found yarns to vintage buttons

I have a stash of yarns I found in the art supply exchange and some were gifts.

I have a selection of vintage buttons from mom's and aunts' stashes; some were my great-grandmother's too.

I tried to pair a selection of both so I can make 7-8 different ones.

Step 2:  Match yarns to patterns

I found a variety of free pidge scarf patterns on Ravelry.com and matched the yarns and needles I have to appropriate patterns.  I chose to start with this as it uses a fairly simple set of stitches.

Step 3:  Follow the pattern instructions

I relied on a number of YouTube videos to do a Left-Handed Knitted Cast-On, knit vs. purl, and a left-handed slipstitch purlwise.

Step 4:  Progress and Notes

The metal needles are too slippery, and I may be having tension issues.  I wouldn't have four rows of Garter Stitch next time, because I think this edge is too big.  I've had to unknit several times as well as join the yarn because there was a break, so I've gathered those video in my post on Knitting Tips.  I've also realized I was switching between English and Continental Styles because I was taught both by different people who didn't explain the difference.  I've included that link in Knitting Tips too.

Step 5:  Evaluate the length

I've been testing the length as I go along by wrapping it around my own neck and trying to envision it with the buttons in use, knowing that the recipient probably has a smaller neck size.

Step 6:  Add buttonholes, if necessary

The pattern called for three buttons and three buttonholes; I have two vintage ones I want to use, so I only added the first two.  It's a bit tight but I didn't add a second yarnover because I didn't want it to be too loose when fastened!

Step 7:  Cast off

I used the __________ cast off (include link).

Step 8:  Add buttons

The pattern indicated a good placement for the buttons, and I laid the scarf out to make sure the buttons would line up with the holes, then sewed them on using doubled matching embroidery floss and an embroidery needle.

Step 9:  Block

I used the __________ blocking method (include link).  I had some cardboard and some extra contact paper I put on it so hopefully the scarf would dry faster rather than making the cardboard wet.

Results

I love this one!  I might be tempted to keep it if I thought I could wear these unknown fibers.

WORK IN PROGRESS

Yarn Identification

Inspiration

 

I have a file box of assorted supplies I've gathered or been given over the years.  I want to make pidge scarves for Christmas gifts, but to use the free Ravelry patterns, I needed to know the yarn weight and yardage in order to use what I have in place of their suggested yarns.

Materials

• Digital kitchen scale
• #2 pencil
• Yardstick or vinyl tape measure
• Ruler
• Small note papers
• Stick pins
• Pen
• Calculator or pen & paper

Step 1:  Weigh the yarn

Using your kitchen scale, tare at 0g, and weigh the whole skein.  If you have multiple balls and skeins of the same kind and color, use a lightweight bowl to hold them all and tare it at 0g.  Record this on a note paper.

Step 2:  Measure several yards of yarn and weigh this

My kitchen scale won't register less than 2g, so I measured enough yards of yarn to register at least 3g.  You don't have to cut this off; merely rest the measured length on the scale, and let the rest hang off the edge to the nearby skein.  Divide the weight of the skein by the 3g and multiply by the number of yards you measured to obtain the approximate total yardage of the skein.  Record these numbers on the paper.

Step 3:  Determine the WPI of the yarn

WPI is "wraps per inch."  Wrap the yarn around a #2 pencil for at least 1" and count the number of wraps per inch.  I did 2" and divided by 2 to ensure a better measure.  Record on the note paper.

Step 4: Determine the weight of the yarn

This is the yarn 'thickness'.  Using the WPI chart linked in Step 3, determine the number and name of the yarn weight.  Make a note of this.  Include the Gauge as well, if you like.

Step 5: Attach the paper to the yarn

I used a stick pin and made sure the point was buried in the yarn.

Result

Two hours later, I'm prepared to choose patterns!